This is worth noting: Tom Philpott, who blogs about (politically correct) food at Grist.org (it's an exceptionally bug-ridden site, so you may or may not be able to access it) more or less agrees with me about the lunacy of the Pollan essay about cooking. And he notes that Julia Child would have, too. Apparently he recently heard a 1989 interview with Child (replayed on Fresh Air) in which Child said:
I grew up in the teens and ‘20s, when most people had—middle class people—had maids or someone to help.”
Philpott notes that Child
reveals that her mother cooked seldom, and then only two dishes: Welsh rabbit (a kind of cheese sandwich) and baking-soda biscuits. As for herself, “I didn’t do any cooking then at all.
So --- there you have it. For what it's worth.